Boquet #8

Thanks again to whomever let the great yellow be released from their stash.  I love the gift!  I think it makes an amazing background.  Let's just say the sun is making my block bloom. 

Looking at all the pieces arranged on my mini design board, it sure looks like a mess.  This block went together really well for me.  I do have to admit after I cut the diamonds, I couldn't figure out which one went where.  I almost cut new pieces because I was convinced that I had cut them incorrectly. 

Cutting:

Background

• 7 - 1 1/2" finished half squares (2" strip EA)
• 2 - 2" X 5" rectangles

Flower and leaves

• 2 each -2" x 3 1/2" rectangles

Vase

• 3" finished half square (3 1/2" strip EA)
• 1 1/2" finished half square (2" strip EA)

I am hoping the take-away method is getting a little easier for all of you.  If you still have questions, re-read this post for a refresher. 

Lay both your petals and leaves wrong sides together (so you get a reversed piece)

Double check that your pieces are 2" x 3 1/2" and line up the 2" stitch line of the easy angle on the corner.  Use your take-away template (if you made one) to double check yourself. 

Place your template in the opposite corner to cut away the triangle making a diamond shape. 

Lay out all your pieces to make sure everything is cut correctly.  Sew 2 triangles on each of the flower petals (refer to final illustration to see how I pressed).  Use your easy angle see if your pieces are the correct size (3" finished half square lined up with the 3 1/2" line).  Sew together the two triangles to make a 3 1/2" square.  Add the leaf units to the right and bottom of the square.

Add the larger vase piece to the flower unit to make a 5" Square.  When You sew the flower & leaf unit to the vase, sew with the vase next to the feed dogs.  This will help you see your "X" where you want your seam to go and give you a perfect point on your flower.  Sew the remaining half square and join it with one of the background pieces.  Attach the remaining two pieces to complete the 6 1/2" block

This is how I pressed my block to get everything to nestle together.  Let me know if you have questions or problems.  After 111 blocks, you all will be experts with the Easy Angle and Companion Angle  (or dislike me)

Periwinkle #66

I am using Freezer Paper Templates for this block.  This is the regular freezer paper that you find in the grocery store.  The box does say that it is plastic.  I thought maybe they changed the product, but I checked the box.  You will need to print the templates for this block.  Please make sure you have the "scaling" box unchecked.  If you want to verify the size (and avoid frustration), print out template #1 from your computer with your printer.  Measure the block - it should measure 2 1/2" X 2 1/2".  If it does, go ahead and print your template 61 and 70 for block #66.  If you get another size, read all the options when you are printing and make sure you are printing actual size.

#66 Periwinkle - Cutting

Color 1- Background
Cut a 2 1/2" strip

Color 2 & 3
Cut 2 squares each 2 3/4"

Trace your templates on freezer paper.  If you want to get them accurate, use a ruler when tracing.  You can also iron the freezer paper to the paper that you printed the template on.  This will keep it from shifting

For the background color.  Since these will go all the way around the block, I marked a grain line on the long edge.

   

Lay your 2 1/2" strip wrong sides together.  This will give you 2 pieces with one being reversed.  Iron the freezer paper template to the right side of the fabric.  Place the acrylic ruler along the edge of the paper and make your first cut.  Turn your rotary mat and cut the other side in the same way.  You can either use your rotary cutter or scissors to trim off the corners to match the template.  Remove the paper and iron the template to the fabric again.  You need 4 of each piece (#61 & #61R). 

Stack the four 2 3/4" square right sides up in a stack aligning one of the corners.  Iron on template 70 aligning the point of the template with the corner of the stack.  Place your ruler on the paper template and cut with you rotary cutter.  Cut both sides, then cut the notches at the point.  You don't have to notch these, but they will help you line things up. 

Lay out all your pieces to make sure they make a square object.  This will help you to get the pattern pieces and the reversed pieces in the correct spots.

 

Sew a background piece to each of the kite shaped pieces.  Repeat with the remaining background pieces.  Press opposing sides the same (2 toward the kites, and 2 away from the kites).  Join  the units pinning the intersections.  Press toward the same color.  Measure you Unit with the easy angle.  It should be equal to a 3 1/2" half square.  

Join the 2 units to complete the 6 1/2" block. Press the final seam open.

Seasons #77

 The FW book makes this block with 9 pieces, and my version is with 13 pieces.  Normally I like to take out seams, but with this block, I wanted to keep the bias away from the edge (and avoid templates).

Cutting:
Color #1 (Orange)
1 square 2 5/8"
4- 3" finished quarter square triangles (2" strip companion angle)

Color #2 (Green)
4 squares 2 5/8"
4 triangles cut with Easy Angle 2" strip (1 1/2" finished)

 Sew your pieces together on the diagonal like a quilt getting set on point.  On my block, I pressed everything toward the green.

Join the center section in a row; and the outside sections into triangles.

Join the 3 sections to complete the block.  Block should measure 6 1/2"

Jelly Roll Race Quilts

These are just a few of the jelly roll race quilts that have been made by the ISE quilt group.  If only we could all remember to bring them and the camera on the same day.  I am enjoying seeing everyone add her own twist to the pattern.  Sue likes to get her diagonals going opposite directions.  Dotty put a filmstrip at the top of hers to make it longer.  Some have added squares in-between the strips.  Eleanor made her baby version with 2" finished pinwheels between the strips (not pictured).  It looked fabulous.  I think it would also look nice with 2" four patches.

Spicy Spiral

I forgot to post this picture.  These are just a few of the spiral runners that people made during our sew day.

Nancy has made so many of these, I think she lost count.  They were very easy to make and the pattern is written well.

Jelly Roll Quilt - The Math, Calculations

Let's start with step by step so I don't lose any one.  Let's call the top the head and the end the tail.
With a typical jelly roll, the strips are 2 1/2" - so they finish at 2"(we are going to talk in terms of finished size).  When you sew them all end to end, they are 2" x 1600".  When you bring the tail to the head and sew your first seam, your quilt is now 4" x 800".  Bring the tail to the head and sew again, now for the second seam, 8" X 400".  Are you seeing the pattern?  - 16" X 200", 32" x 100", 64" x 50".  If you would fold it in half again, it would be 128" X25".  I would say the most you would want to bring the head to the tail is 5 times (32 strips wide)- or to the 64" mark, because 128" is just too big!!

The question was asked about how many inches for queen size?  How many strips?
Let's aim for somewhere around 88" X 96" (mattress size listed as 60 X 80)

We are going to do this quilt as two Jelly Roll Race Quilts. 
Quilt 1
Let's start with Quilt 1.  We want this piece to measure 64" long X 88" wide.  Each Strip finished at 2", so that is 32 strips long.  So we need 88" Wide by 32 strips long (64")= 2816".  Converting that to strips would be 70.4 strips.  Remember - you are going 88" across with your strips.  If you are using full strips (around 40"), you are going to have basically 2 strips across in every row.  Don't forget to start with a half strip...or you could use half strip widths.
Quilt 2
We are now going to make quilt 2.  Since the first quilt was 64" long, we are going to make this one 32" long.  64+32=96".  So this quilt will measure 32" long X 88" wide.  Each strip finished at 2", so that is 16 strips long.  16 strips X 88 across = 1408".  Converting that to strips would be 35.2 strips.  Remember- you are bringing the head to the tail one less time on this quilt.

Sew Quilt one to Quilt 2 and square up.  Your quilt should measure approximately 88" x 96".

Back to the Math- and more ramblings by me......

• My advice always Start with the length (32" or 64").  Remember...when you bring the head to the tail, one measurement doubles and the other measurement decreases by HALF.
• If you want to make a baby jelly roll race quilt and you want to know how many strips (or inches) to use -If your length is 32", select a proportional width (around 28").  Using the formula 32" = 16 strips of 2" each; 28" wide X 16 strips = 448" (11 strips)
• Lastly- don't be afraid to turn the quilt vertical!  64" can be your width.  Figure it the same way.  to make 64" wide X 80 long....32 strips X 80" Long= 2560" (or 64 strips)
• You can make other lengths besides 32" and 64", but you will have to use your seam ripper.

If you made it all the way through this post, you probably think I am nuts for calculating this!  I hope this helps you on your adventure.  If you don't do the math, you may end up with something like this post.  Yes, I had to visit the seam ripper to make it proportional.  Don't be afraid to experiment with other size strips!  I wouldn't go less than 2" strips (1 1/2" finished).  What a great way to use up scraps.  The baby quilt I made was with 2 1/4" binding strips all different lengths that were left in a box.
Did I confuse you further or is it making sense? 

My Formula:

1. Determine the length (32" or 64")
2. Determine a proportional width to go with the length selected
3. Take the # of strips (16,32)multiplied by the Width desired to get how many inches you need. 
4. If you want to estimate strips, divide this number by 40.

#75 Rosebud

Cutting Instructions:

Color #1 (Yellow)

• 4- 3" finished half squares (3 1/2" strip with easy angle)
• 12- 1" finished half squares (1 1/2" strip with easy angle)

Color #2 (Blue)

• 4- 2" finished half squares (2 1/2" strip with easy angle)
• 8- 1" finished half squares (1 1/2" strip with easy angle)

Start by sewing the 1" finished half squares together (8), Press toward the darker color.  Save yourself some aggrevation later and square up to 1 1/2" with the square up ruler or any square with a bias line.  Join the half squares together in pairs and add the 1" finished remaining triangles (4).  I pressed the seam where I joined the half squares open to reduce the bulk.  Join with the 4 - 2" finished half squares to make a larger triangle unit.  Press toward the larger triangle.  Square up with the Easy Angle if necessary (match up with 3 1/2" line)

Join the units with the remaining triangles (they should be the same size) to make 4 - 3 1/2" square, then join together in a 4 patch fashion to complete the 6 1/2" block. 

If only the illustrations and instructions were as informative on garment patterns!!